Saturday, November 28, 2009

Back in Oaxaca at last!

I have been feeling a bit disconnected from Oaxaca lately, something that makes me a bit sad. With travel to San Francisco, then to Puerto Escondido for a weekend, then to Playa del Carmen for another weekend, I feel like I've not had a chance to spend time in this city I love. I also felt I needed to step up my language practice. So this morning we went to what is called "Inter Cambio", a 2 hour language exchange. Spanish speaking natives and english speakers show up, it's free, and you basically chat for 2 hours, 1 hour in Spanish and 1 hour in English. My speaking partners today were Marisol and Martha. Let me tell you, you can cover A LOT of material in 2 hours. Unionization in Mexico, Christmas traditions, if I had ever seen seals or polar bears near my house, describing your house, your future plans to immigrate to Mexico and grow grapes for wine, the type of work you do, for what company...shall I go on? At the end of the two hours I was tired, thirsty and my brain was fried. What a great experience! We'll be back on another Satruday for sure.
We went to The Italian Coffee Company for coffee and cake, it was way too early for Mexican lunch. Lunch is taken at about 3:00 in the afternoon, and it was barely 12:30!
Last night, in another great Oaxaca building, the Libary, we attended a classical guitar concert. Free. It has been many years since I have heard a guitarist of that calibre play. We gave him enough applause to merit an encore, the courtyard of the library was full and we hung on his every strum. He played beautifully. Thanks Julio Garcia, for an inspirational evening.
And thanks to Oaxaca, as always, for being Oaxaca, nothing more, nothing less. It's good to be back, at last!

Off to see my Chicas!


Before I blog about this weekend, I should mention I was in Cancun/Playa Del Carmen (The Disneyworld of Mexico) last weekend for 4 days to see Las Chicas, girlfriends of mine who came down south for a Stagette/Bachelorette party. One significant mentionable was the fact that in Mexico, you can't fly anywhere (it would seem) without flying through Mexico City. This meant I flew 1 hour north east to then fly 2 hours south east. Very direct. One small saving grace is the Starbucks in Mexico City airport. I surprised the girls and arrived earlier than they expected, and we had a lot of laughs, some projectile vomiting and the prerequisite tan lines. I enjoyed seeing the girls, laughing and letting loose in a resot where I will never go again, partly for fear that someone might recognize me.
Highlights I will laugh about when I am 80: Austrian weightlifter in Cancun in a lime green thong, mosquitos that ate me alive in the Lobby Bar, parasailing with Shirley, Erin and Sarah, scuba with Sarah, chilling with The Bride to Be for a day, and chest pops with Alison to Calle Ocho.
Getting back to Oaxaca was good, except I had neglected to leave the flight informatin for Ralph, and my flight was delayed. On arrival in Oaxaca, he was no where to be found. I called the house - no answer. I paced and debated what to do. I was woried something had happened over the weekend. My cell phone was not cooperating and my blackberry email was down. Thankfully, they have Boingo wireless at the airport. US$7.95 later, I found Ralph via Skype, he was safe, at home, looking for me. Reunited at last! I promise to plan better next time!

Friday, November 20, 2009

First Real Estate Trip

Today I went on a real estate outing with Fernando our house agent. We drove west about 25 minutes to a town called Tlacolula which is about a third of the way to Mitla. We stopped in the town to pick up a gentleman who would show us around the property.

The property is just outside of the town towards the southern mountains. The property is 3 hectares square with 2 wells on it. The field is pretty well over grown with wild flowers and thorny brush. At one time the field was used to grow corn.

It wasn't an easy walk but I forced the guys to walk around the property with me. No sense going to see a property if you're not going to see it all. Of course we got covered with thistles and prickly seeds that stuck to all of our clothes. It was a good thing that I had on a long shirt and long pants.

Anyway, we were in the back left hand corner of the property when the guide (I didn't get his name) said that there was a large pool on the property about 10 x 20 feet big. This actually turned out to be 10 meters by 20 meters. The guy said that they used to fish in the pond so I was very excited. So off we went tramping through the brush. On that part of the property there are many little thorny trees. It was quite the job to cross the field without being stabbed to death by all the thorns.

Surprise, surprise! The pond or pool is a man made cement pool with 2 feet wide cement walls. The pool is at least 10 feet deep. In the middle of the pool is a walled in structure that is the well that fed the now empty pool. The pool was used to grow fish for sale and had been used as a swimming pool in the past.

The property would be nice but I think 3 hectares is a bit too much especially at the price. The starting price is US$20 per square meter. There are 10,000 square meters in a hectare so the 3 hectares or 30,000 square meters would cost $600,000. A bit pricey considering we would have to build a house also.

But it was a lot of fun. I think my face got sun burnt while we were traipsing around that field. Tomorrow I am off to see another property just east of Oaxaca in the hills of Etla. This is a smaller property about 2.5 acres (1 hectare) with a US$60,000 price.

Of course Tanya and I promised that we would not actually buy anything while we are here this time. The objective is to just find a location. I think we are going to have a difficult time in not buying. We will see.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

So? How bad is the drive to Puerto Escondido, really?



When we were here in 2006, we only had a week and everyone told us the drive was A.) Horrendous and B.) 6 hours long. We decided then we would not take the trip at that time.


With Ralph's Spanish lessons ended for a short 1 week break, and my part time schedule, we packed the car and fled the city on Friday morning. Some anecdotes we had heard about the road:

• Don't drive tired.

• Don't drive at night.

• Don't drink and drive on this road (or any other road, for that matter!)

• Be very careful.

• Leave early.

We knew the road was about 100 miles through the Sierras. Ralph thought it was 120 kilometers, as the crow flies. We had read stories about a small orange pylon marking the fact that the road was completely washed away. We were told to get gas before leaving Oaxaca.
The real story:
It's all true. The drive takes conservatively 7 hours total, including 1 pee break and time to get some snacks. The road is literally riddled with potholes or what one could loosely call "grooved pavement". There were sections of the road completely washed away. There are no shoulders. The shrubs and trees grow right to the edge of the road, making a lovely tunnel effect. Beyond the shrubs and trees is air, a steep slope to sure death at the bottom of the valley. In addition to the cows wandering on the road, one can witness goats, waterfalls and donkey. And an occasional chicken.

Did we mention it was S turn after S turn - so many they don't even bother with a sign telling you about said S turn. There are few places to pull over to let the red sporty Volkswagens by, there are NO places with dotted yellow lines for passing, but you pass anyway.

We drove between 40 and 60 kilometers per hour. We passed one S turn where a beer truck had lost its load all over the road, 2 small red triangles denoted the one lane available for passing the clean up crew.


We drove through spectacular scenery, into the clouds, our highest altitude 1902 meters above sea level. The mountain vegetation is clearly defined by the green or brown depending on which side of the range the Pacific is on. The corn fields on the side of the hill that surely require repelling equipment for planting and picking amazed us.


We were stopped at a roadblock for about 30 minutes, though we originally thought it was going to be 3 hours. Apparently the blockade was a statement/protest/fundraiser for road repair. Had I known, I would have gladly handed over the VISA.

Most remarkable: It seems that frequent drivers strap a framed picture of a virgin (Soledad or Guadalupe, not sure if this is personal preference or other recommendation) to the grill of their car/van/SUV/pickup/semi tractor trailer. Fresh or dried flowers adorn her image on either side.

Viya con Dios to Paradise.

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Etla or Italy?

On Sunday we were invited to join a few aquaintances for a drive. The original plan was to go check out some caves north of the city about a 2 hour drive away. By the time church was out and we were ready to go, it was 2, so instead we went to Etla. This worked out well, and Ralph and I had been wanting to see Etla anyhow.
Etla is a suburb or Oaxaca, you can;t really tell where Oaxaca ends and Etla begins. There are a group of 5 villages locals call The Etlas. There are a few ruins in the area, and, we discovered, a great swimming pool/water park that has nice food, and at least 5 swimming pools. As most of you know, Ralph and I would like to grow grapes to maybe make wine. At least wine would be the plan! In the pat month Ralph has been reading and I have been listening to the secrets of grape growing for wine. There are 2 key things you can't get wrong. Soil conditions and choosing the grape to grow in said soil conditions. All other things can be managed.
Ralph and I have been to several wine regions around the world, and we're confident the climate and landscape here bode well for a bit of vino. I thought I'd see if you agree. Which picture is of Etla, Oaxaca, Mexico and which picture is of Greve in Chianti, Itlay?

Picture 1:

Picture 2:

Monte Alban - the Niagara Falls of Oaxaca


We had a friend visit us for a few days, just before I left to San Francisco. Other than let her rest after a hard week on the road and a bit of stress in Mexico City airport, we hadn't really planned too much other than puttering around the city, visiting and chatting. When we were here in 2006, Ralph and I took a bus out to Monte Alban. I had wanted to go again, so convinced Bonnie to be agreeable to trek around a ruin with me. Other than launching Little Blue into the air because we were chatting and failed to notice another tope, the drive there was easy, it's about 25 minutes from the house. On arriving we look for a shady place to part. Not happening. So we park in the sun, grab our sun hats I had thought to take from the house, and off we go.



The last time we were at Monte Alban, we had hired a guide. I recommend, very strongly, that you do the same. The cost is very little and the value is incredible. They are knowledgeable, well spoken and shuttle you from shady spot to shady spot. Allow about 90 minutes to get a good appreciation of the site. When Bonnie and I were going through the entry turnstile, I asked about a guide. Seemed everyone was busy, another guy was waiting for a bus, another guy was off on lunch. I was not walking through the site without a guide. So, being my usual self, I spotted a grey haired, older, taller tourist and asked if we could join his group. He agreed, and the Homosexual Kentucky Reformed Baptists and Bonnie and I, along with our guide Julio, set off to see the sights. The Boys were a riot! Wherever they are today, Bonnie and I send our love. We had a few good laughs as we toured the site, some confusion about my virginity (we were discussing sacrifices) and we climbed ALL THOSE STAIRS. We had a great day, and then finished it off with a lunch in their amazing cafe and a short tour of the gift shop and museum. As I was snapping pictures of one of the most amazing ruins I have visited, I wondered out loud to Bonnie how many times over the next 6 months I would be taking pictures of Monte Alban. My friends in Toronto and I have a friendly competition. If you are not originally from Toronto and have lots of visiting family, Niagara Falls is part of every family and friend visit. I have a feeling Monte Alban is my new Niagara Falls.

2 down...


Tuesday, November 10, 2009

First Haircut in Mexico

picture of Ralph with new haircut
Okay, so I couldn't wait until I got back to Toronto for a trim. I was going to let it grow out but I like it short in this heat. Since February 1987 I have gotten my hair cut by my buddy David. Only on one occasion did someone else cut my hair and that was because Dave took a holiday and I didn't get the memo. I feel that I have crossed the line and betrayed my relationship with Dave. I hope he understands.

So, I found this little barber shop next to the city's central square (Zocolo). The front side of the shop is open to the sidewalk so when you are in the "chair" you are an arm's length from the passersby and any side walk vendors who may want to sell you something. When I arrived I sat in one of the 5 waiting chairs next to another waiting customer. The barber who must be at least 75 was cutting another older man's hair. The barber stopped cutting and went over to a side table and brought me a couple of magazines to read while I was waiting my turn. There were 3 barber chairs but only one barber at that time.

The barber finished with the older man and then the young man beside me took the chair. As he was getting into the chair he pointed at a picture on the wall above me to indicate the style he wanted. When he was done I compared the picture to the finished product. I am not sure but I think the young man just got the same style he arrived with but only shorter.

Now it was my turn. I took the chair and was prepared to astonish the barber with my Spanish as I was going to tell him that I only wanted a trim and to take off about one half of an inch. But, before I could say anything he asked "regular?". Whoa! that seemed to sum it all up so I just said, "Si".

When he was done I asked the price and he said 50 pesos. In Canadian that is a little less than $5.00. I just couldn't do it. At home that is a $30.00 trim with a wash and massage. Now granted I did not get a wash and massage but still, 5 dollars?

I think he did a reasonable job. You can judge for yourselves from the picture. So I tipped him 100%. Yes, a $10 trim. Still a deal as I see it.

Don't worry Dave, I won't be looking for a discount when I return to Toronto.

Monday, November 2, 2009

Bamboozled in Guadalajara

We were told when we first arrived in Mexico, that when we flew out of Mexico, we simply forfeited our visitor visa, and upon re-entry, we would be provided with a new one. Simple, right? Well, it's simple if you know that when you board your international flight out of Mexico, the airline simply takes your visa. Nothing more is required.


When I disembark in the hottest freaking airport I have ever been in my whole life (Guadalajara), a chimed voice on Mexicana tells me that if I have an connecting international flight, that I should pass some customs and go to my other gate. When I checked in for the flight in Oaxaca, the Mexicana agent told me I would pass immigration in Guadalajara. Now before I go on, let's be clear on terminology. Immigration (starts with an "I") is the people who make sure you don't enter a country illegally. Customs (I know, confusing, starts with a "C") is the agency that makes sure you are not bringing any goods into a country that are prohibited. Like salami, for example, into Canada.

On arriving in Hot Airport From Hell, I start looking for an information booth. None on the floor I am on. I figure I'll go downstairs, where the baggage claim is. I see Customs. I walk over to two Federalis with the traditional guns in their adorable green camo outfits. Now imagine this. I am explaining that I am Canadian, living in Oaxaca for 6 months, going to the US for one week and then returning to Oaxaca. I explain I was told when I entered Mexico that I would have to forfeit my tourist visa when I flew out of the country.

Blank stares. They refer me to the woman at customs, who is not there. While waiting, another crowd control person asks what I am waiting for. He explains I need to go to Immigration. Walk to the end of the hall, he says.

And so I walk. Did I mention how hot this airport was? I arrive at Immigration. The man is leaning back in his chair. I ask him if he speaks English. Nope. I explain (again - third time is a charm, right?) my question. He tells me that I have to pay 263 pesos to exit the country. He points to the sign. The sign says if a person with a foreign passport has LOST their tourist card, they need to pay a fine to exit the country. I explain that I did not lose the card, I had the card. He says that no, this is the process. My Spanish is good, but my confidence in the process is not. I debate. Internally. Tell him he's full of crap and risk that when I try to get back into Mexico they won't let me in? I consider the price. $263 pesos. About $25 bucks. Not huge. I decide to pay, this time. He fills out the form, gives it to me, keeps my tourist card and then tells me my Spanish is excellent.

The back of my new form says that this form should be provided to me free of charge. That if I am charged for said form I should report this to the authorities. And so I will. I will write to some Mexican office and tell them I was bamboozled out of $263 pesos. It won't change anything. I hope the $263 pesos goes to buy something pretty for a girlfriend or a daughter. Maybe flowers for his mother.

School Field Trip

Today is a national holiday so the Spanish School was closed. So, we students went on a field trip to the south of the city of Oaxaca. We met at 9:30 AM at the coffee shop next to the school and headed off.

Our first stop was at San Bartolo Coyotepec. Entering into the town we turned off to go to the Cochineal museum and research station. Cochineal is a very little bug that attaches itself to the nopal cactus. It is the larva of this bug that is dried and ground to make a very natural red dye. This dye is used in coloring rugs and a natural color in such things as Campbell soup, campari and yogurt. Unfortunately for us, the facility was closed for the holiday.

So on we went to the Black pottery shops in the town. The black pottery is made from iron rich clay that when fired with a reduction of oxygen, turns black. I got to practice my Spanish in the shop when I asked how the pottery turned black. Apparently my Spanish needs more work because the gentleman proceeded to tell us how the shine was put on the pottery. That is, by rubbing metal over the pottery before it is fired.

Next we moved onto San Martin Tilcajete to see the colourful painted animals called Alebrijes. Below is a picture of my class mates outside of one of the shops. From left to right are Alex and Laura, a couple from San Francisco and Betty from Switzerland.

School chums

Below is an example of a major piece. This elephant is on sale for C$140. It is beautiful. These pieces must take many hours just to paint. This piece was created by Joaquin Hernandez who kindly allowed me to take a picture. Probably because my Spanish was so good.

Elephant
This town is well worth the visit. I am sure this will be on the itinerary for everyone visiting us.

We had lunch at the same place that Tanya and I did back in 2006 when we were here last. This time it wasn't raining.

Then off to Ocotlan, the birth place of Rodolfo Morales. This is a larger town with a spectacular church.

Church

This church is very well maintained. The painting and artwork inside are outstanding. After a walk through the church we walked through the street market and then back through the closed in permanent market building. Tanya and I have been in Ocotlan on the Friday market day which is packed with people and vendors. There was a stage set up next to the main square but the entertainment must have ended. No folk dancing with pinapples on your shoulder today. This was about 3:00 PM and even the vendors were breaking down their displays.

So back to Oaxaca we went. Time for a nap and to complete our Spanish homework. It was a great day.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Home Alone

Tanya left for San Francisco this morning leaving me to survive on my own in Mexico. But that is okay, I am driving solo now and can get around nicely. Tanya is gone for the week doing business with her company for a few days and speaking at a conference. "Go girl".

I may be home alone but I have commitments. There is Missy the cat to take care of and there are Spanish classes each day for 4 hours and of course the follow up study and practice. Monday is a statutory holiday so I am off on a site seeing tour south of the city with 3 of my Spanish School class mates.

Stayed tuned for pictures from this field trip.

Day of the Dead

The title may sound ominous but the is a special time for Mexicans to remember past family members. It is also a national holiday on Monday. There are many activities and events.

First of all it seems that every household and business creates an alter of memories that contains references, things of the deceased and food that they may have liked. The following is a picture of the alter that they created at the Spanish School.
Day of the Dead Alter
Unfortunately I cannot rotate this picture. You will have to tilt your head. Sorry, I'll be more careful in the future to keep my pictures straight.

In the central square in the centre of the city they set aside 6 or 7 areas that are at least 20x20 feet square for the creation of 3 dimension sand pictures.

Skelton

Colour is very important in the displays. First the artists create the 3 dimensional figures. Then, using coloured powers they add the colour to the figures. The application of colour is usually done by putting the power into a small wire kitchen strainer and sifting the power over the image.

Sand painting

As you can see the images are striking and very large.

Saturday evening, 31 October 2009 we went down to the centre square (Zocolo) to see the finished products. It seems that every one in the city was there. The sand pictures were spectacular. There was strolling, music and happy people. It was a great experience.