What does this mean? Last day before winter? Well, tomorrow George, Tanya and I fly back to Toronto for a week. It is winter, for real, there. That means minus temperatures and winter coats and boots.
Tanya and I have been talking about Toronto winters trying to remember exactly what that means. We can remember cold but cannot quite get the feel of it. And poor George. He remembers winter because just 3 short weeks ago he was in the middle of it.
So this is our last day in the warm sun. We plan on having an easy day and then pack for the trip. Okay, first step is "The Italian Coffee Company" which is a Starbucks clone. George has taken a liking to their apple strudel. So apple strudel and Cafe Americanos it is on the patio in the shade. Next we hope into the car and head out to the little carved animal village where Tanya buys some things for people at her office and George picks us a colourful cat piece. It is so sunny and hot that I have to stand in the shade waiting.
Back into the car for one last tourist stop. This time it is in the village of Cuilapan where there is an unfinished church from 1560. Cortez had a problem with the church in Spain so he forced the construction to stop since it was on his land anyway. The location is outstanding and the mountain views are wonderful.
Off again. This time it is to the Zocalo in Oaxaca so George can get his shoes shined. He has been doing too much country walking and his shoes were just too dusty for travel. We had a nice lunch in a sidewalk restaurant then George went into the park to find just the right shoeshine kiosk. After the shine we headed back to the house. We did a little packing. Mainly we are bringing back stuff we don't need anymore such as the little Christmas tree we bought and some extra clothes.
One last outting! George is taking us out to dinner. We are going to a dinner and dance show. The dances are representative of the seven geographic and cutural areas of the state. The food was adequate and the dances were spectacular. The regional dresses are very colourful and amazing. The women's dresses, I should say, the men's were very plain.
So this is it. We have to pack for our flights tomorrow. We are going to miss our Oaxaca home and new friends. Of course the warm sunny days are on our mind as is the cold Toronto streets. But then again, we will be seeing our Toronto friends and attending the wedding of our dear friends Claire and Len.
Stay tuned for some of our Toronto adventures and weather updates.
Sunday, January 31, 2010
Land - Another Look
Okay, let's have another look at the land that we are interested in. This time we are a group because we want the opinions of others. The group consists of Fernando, the real estate agent and new friend, his 6 year old son, Sheila, the daughter of the woman who owns the house we are renting, Mo, Sheila's boyfriend from England, George, our Toronto friend and John, a new Oaxacan resident from Maine, U.S.A. and of course Tanya and I. So off we go in two cars.
We arrive at the dirt-road junction. From here it is a 10 minute drive around hills to the property or a 5 minute walk to the river bed that runs next to the property. We walk along the short road to the river bed where the property owner suggests that we build a bridge to the property.
The river bed is dry even though it rained heavily the night before. I (Ralph) bound down the river bank while George slips and slides down the bank. The others, seeing George's mishap take the easy way down. We walk across the dry river bed and up onto the property. Tanya provides a tour of the land while I scurry about looking at the property edges and possible road ways to the property.
The group gives us a positive response and agrees that the location is perfect. Yes, the property is perfect, it is just the access to the property that gives us concern.
From Google Earth you can see the property at N17 09.742 W096 45.725 which is at the centre of the property.
Anyway, back to the cars. We are now going to drive the long route around and with the shovel in the car we will take a soil sample. There are many turns off the dirt road so we immediately get lost. We back track to a road that I think is correct and I lead. Will, the road soon disappears into a farmer's field. The farmer gives us a curious look as we make a 5-point turn.
The cows just stare at us. The farmer's dog runs away.
This time Fernando takes the lead and over we go through what looks like a front yard of a house. But it is actually the road so we eventually get to the property. I take the shovel and start digging. Well, not really. The ground is hard as rock. Fernando takes the shovel and quickly digs a hole. I scrape dirt from the side of the hole trying to get a good profile sample. We look around and see a herd of goats walking past us on their way to the grass on the oher side of the field.
Off we go again. This time we stop at the owner's house where he treats us to beers and Coca Cola. The bridge quickly becomes the top topic. He tells us and shows us a document from the County Office which says that we would be better off building a causeway that would allow any water to pass through. The high water mark is only 1 foot so we are not talking about a grand project. And, the County would probably contribute to the project.
We are much relieved as the thought of bridge building was very intimidating. We inform the property owner that it will probably take us 2 years to prepare financially to the project. We estimate that we will need 2-3 hundred thousand for property and another 2-3 hundred thousand for initial building. Yes, we need at least 2 years to get prepared.
our next step is to get the soil analyzed to determine the best wine grape for the area.
We arrive at the dirt-road junction. From here it is a 10 minute drive around hills to the property or a 5 minute walk to the river bed that runs next to the property. We walk along the short road to the river bed where the property owner suggests that we build a bridge to the property.
The river bed is dry even though it rained heavily the night before. I (Ralph) bound down the river bank while George slips and slides down the bank. The others, seeing George's mishap take the easy way down. We walk across the dry river bed and up onto the property. Tanya provides a tour of the land while I scurry about looking at the property edges and possible road ways to the property.
The group gives us a positive response and agrees that the location is perfect. Yes, the property is perfect, it is just the access to the property that gives us concern.From Google Earth you can see the property at N17 09.742 W096 45.725 which is at the centre of the property.
Anyway, back to the cars. We are now going to drive the long route around and with the shovel in the car we will take a soil sample. There are many turns off the dirt road so we immediately get lost. We back track to a road that I think is correct and I lead. Will, the road soon disappears into a farmer's field. The farmer gives us a curious look as we make a 5-point turn.
The cows just stare at us. The farmer's dog runs away.This time Fernando takes the lead and over we go through what looks like a front yard of a house. But it is actually the road so we eventually get to the property. I take the shovel and start digging. Well, not really. The ground is hard as rock. Fernando takes the shovel and quickly digs a hole. I scrape dirt from the side of the hole trying to get a good profile sample. We look around and see a herd of goats walking past us on their way to the grass on the oher side of the field.
Off we go again. This time we stop at the owner's house where he treats us to beers and Coca Cola. The bridge quickly becomes the top topic. He tells us and shows us a document from the County Office which says that we would be better off building a causeway that would allow any water to pass through. The high water mark is only 1 foot so we are not talking about a grand project. And, the County would probably contribute to the project.
We are much relieved as the thought of bridge building was very intimidating. We inform the property owner that it will probably take us 2 years to prepare financially to the project. We estimate that we will need 2-3 hundred thousand for property and another 2-3 hundred thousand for initial building. Yes, we need at least 2 years to get prepared.
our next step is to get the soil analyzed to determine the best wine grape for the area.
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Adventures of Ralph and George
Our friend George who is visiting from Canada for 3 weeks wanted to see more of Mexico. His interest was Veracruz on the Gulf of Mexico. And Ralph said that why take a bus, let's drive.
So off they went leaving Tanya home to work.
The plan was to drive to Fortin de las Flores and stay overnight with Tanya's step-grand-mother then drive into Veracruz the next day. One overnight in Veracruz and then back to Oaxaca,
The drive out of Oaxaca on the Tuesday was great. The weather was clear and there were very few cars and trucks on the road. We made very good time (IE I drove very fast). George was amazed at the change in geography as we approached the state of Puebla and then again as we approached the state of Veracruz. In Puebla there is a big volcano with snow on the top year round. It is an outstanding view. Of course we were looking for "The Italian Coffee Company", a Starbucks clone. We didn't come across one until near the Veracruz/Puebla border. That made George very happy.
The only other event on the drive was being flagged over at a military stop where I was asked for my car permit and to search the trunk. I think that is what the guy was saying. I didn't understand all of what he was saying. I just pointed to my Temporary Import Permit on the front window and opened the trunk for them. After a quick poke around our bags and a guy at the back saying "Ontario" as he pointed at my plate, we were off. They probably didn't want to go through all of the trouble trying to converse with me.
Before going into Fortin we stopped in Córdoba which is next to Fortin and much larger. At the Zócalo we had lunch and coffee.
George ordered a paella which is mainly sea food with a little chicken over saffron rice. Afterwards we walked about town then headed off to Fortin. Did I mention that it was cold? I was the only person in town wearing sandals with no socks. It was overcast and cool. Most people were wearing coats and scarfs. I was obviously a tourist from someplace warm.
Off to Fortin. Anyway, we were having a great visit with the family. George and I were fluently conversing in Spanish with Laura, Tonia, Jessica and Nona (grand-mother). Then Nona says, "Do you want to walk to the bridge?". I say yes. I have been there a few times before and think that George would like the view. The road bridge and train bridge cross over a deep valley where after walking 350 steps down there is a public swimming pool. Of course it is too cold for swimming. Nona hands me a cigar and says, Let's go. Hey, I like the cigar bit. I check the label, it says "It's a girl" (in Spanish). But it is fresh and smokes nicely. Nona says she has had the cigar for 5 years. Did I mention how humid it gets in Fortin? It must be like a humidor.
Down the street and up onto the highway we go. It is a half kilometer walk along side roaring traffic to the bridge. The bridge is named "Bridge of Love". I don't know if anyone really jumped from there. I learned that when the bridge was being built people buried their dead in the cement. That was supposed to have good karma.
Anyway, there is a viewing spot, a small store and parking for tourists.
But the view is not good enough for us so we walk up and over the bank onto the train bridge. There is a better view from that bridge. And then what do you know, a train! We cross over to the other track to let the train pass. We wave and the engineer hoots and waves back.
Okay, enough of this and besides it is starting to rain. Back we go to the house. We have supper, more conversations and then Mimi arrives with Lety. I have not seen Mimi since she left Toronto a few years ago. She wants to come back to Toronto soon. Nona pulls out some old family documents. Her family came to Veracruz in 1881 along with a number of other Italian immigrants. Nona's family actually begins in Russia where they immigrated to Italy. After Mimi leaves uncle Manual drops in for coffee and some conversation.
It is past 11:00 pm when we go off to bed. We sleep late and don't get going until 9:00 am. No coffee or breakfast which disappoints Nona. She knows that we are off to Veracruz and do not have a lot of time. She wishes us a safe trip.
Back on the road again. The city of Veracruz is only an hour away. We arrive at 10:00 am but it takes us a Little time to find the hotel.
It has been 10 years since I have been here and there has been a lot of development along the water front. We check in to the hotel. This is a magical place. The hotel was built in the 1940's and is modeled after a cruise ship with multiple levels all looking out to sea. We settle into the room and then off to "El centro" and the Zocalo.
The traffic is crazy down town. No parking in sight when suddenly a guy waves us into a tiny spot. Whoa! That was great. So off we trot looking for the Zocalo. We haven't had breakfast so brunch is calling.
We find the Zocalo and pick a restaurant. Shrimp for breakfast. I picked up a city map from the tourist office on the Zocalo. George and I look it over to decide on what sights we should take in. We decide to walk along the waterfront and go down to the aquarium which I remember as being equivalent to the one in Boston.
Off we go. We run the gauntlet past all of the street vendors along the way. The views are wonderful and the sun is shinning brightly with gentle sea breezes. The walk turned out to be very long, about 2 km. Anyway, we arrive. I see that my memory has faded. Although the aquarium is big and has those spots where the fish and sharks swim over you, this is not like the Boston aquarium. Still it is impressive.
I see that they added a dolphin tank with 3 dolphins. They are very big.
There is lots of shopping in the building which suggests that we go to a mall.
We grab a taxi back to our car and we drive to the Mall of the Americas. This is a big mall on the scale of Square One in Mississauga. We do a little window shopping then we look for "The Italian Coffee Company". George needs his coffee and sweets. Of course I have to humour him and have cheese cake too.
Back to the hotel for a quick change then back to town. We take a taxi this time because there will be drinking. The Zocalo is different in the evening. There are more music groups then diners in the cafes. There are 3 groups playing and they are all within 4 tables of us. The music and singing blends into one large orchestra. The passing vendors are selling Rolex watches, Cuban cigars, peanuts, hammocks and other food items. The place is crazy with sounds, colours and people. We love it. Of course I buy a box of Romeo and Juliette, robustos. The guy wants 350 pesos for them . We settle on 300 pesos which means that the cigars are about 1 dollar each.
After supper which is about 10:30 pm we decide it is time for coffee and desert. We find a taxi and order him to take us to a "The Italian Coffee Company" in the Boca Del Rio area (near our hotel). We have a coffee and carrot cake. For some reason the waiter at the cash thinks my request for Pastel Zanahoria is funny. But a smart quick girl behind the counter runs back to the kitchen and returns with a whole cake. She understood my request and jumped upon it. Great service. My Spanish must be good.
It is midnight by the time we are ready to go because I had one of the cigars. It was very good. So a taxi ride back to the hotel and off to bed.
I am up by 8:00 am. By 9:00 am George and I are in the breakfast room overlooking the grounds and the sea. George loves sitting in the sun looking off to sea.
We walk down to the beach which is just off the hotel property. It is a very nice day and a good opportunity to have a morning cigar. A guy walks by us with a large pail, the size of a milking pail. It is full of freshly caught shrimp which he is selling to people on the beach.
Now it is time to leave. We head back up to the hotel and check out. Off we head home.
Our first stop along the way is at "The Italian Coffee Company" for a send off coffee. Before actually getting home we will have sampled 2 more Italian Coffee Company locations. The weather is great and the traffic not too bad. We make the trip in under 5 hours. I must have been driving very quickly it seems.
What a great trip.
So off they went leaving Tanya home to work.
The plan was to drive to Fortin de las Flores and stay overnight with Tanya's step-grand-mother then drive into Veracruz the next day. One overnight in Veracruz and then back to Oaxaca,
The drive out of Oaxaca on the Tuesday was great. The weather was clear and there were very few cars and trucks on the road. We made very good time (IE I drove very fast). George was amazed at the change in geography as we approached the state of Puebla and then again as we approached the state of Veracruz. In Puebla there is a big volcano with snow on the top year round. It is an outstanding view. Of course we were looking for "The Italian Coffee Company", a Starbucks clone. We didn't come across one until near the Veracruz/Puebla border. That made George very happy.
The only other event on the drive was being flagged over at a military stop where I was asked for my car permit and to search the trunk. I think that is what the guy was saying. I didn't understand all of what he was saying. I just pointed to my Temporary Import Permit on the front window and opened the trunk for them. After a quick poke around our bags and a guy at the back saying "Ontario" as he pointed at my plate, we were off. They probably didn't want to go through all of the trouble trying to converse with me.
Before going into Fortin we stopped in Córdoba which is next to Fortin and much larger. At the Zócalo we had lunch and coffee.
George ordered a paella which is mainly sea food with a little chicken over saffron rice. Afterwards we walked about town then headed off to Fortin. Did I mention that it was cold? I was the only person in town wearing sandals with no socks. It was overcast and cool. Most people were wearing coats and scarfs. I was obviously a tourist from someplace warm.Off to Fortin. Anyway, we were having a great visit with the family. George and I were fluently conversing in Spanish with Laura, Tonia, Jessica and Nona (grand-mother). Then Nona says, "Do you want to walk to the bridge?". I say yes. I have been there a few times before and think that George would like the view. The road bridge and train bridge cross over a deep valley where after walking 350 steps down there is a public swimming pool. Of course it is too cold for swimming. Nona hands me a cigar and says, Let's go. Hey, I like the cigar bit. I check the label, it says "It's a girl" (in Spanish). But it is fresh and smokes nicely. Nona says she has had the cigar for 5 years. Did I mention how humid it gets in Fortin? It must be like a humidor.
Down the street and up onto the highway we go. It is a half kilometer walk along side roaring traffic to the bridge. The bridge is named "Bridge of Love". I don't know if anyone really jumped from there. I learned that when the bridge was being built people buried their dead in the cement. That was supposed to have good karma.
Anyway, there is a viewing spot, a small store and parking for tourists.
But the view is not good enough for us so we walk up and over the bank onto the train bridge. There is a better view from that bridge. And then what do you know, a train! We cross over to the other track to let the train pass. We wave and the engineer hoots and waves back.Okay, enough of this and besides it is starting to rain. Back we go to the house. We have supper, more conversations and then Mimi arrives with Lety. I have not seen Mimi since she left Toronto a few years ago. She wants to come back to Toronto soon. Nona pulls out some old family documents. Her family came to Veracruz in 1881 along with a number of other Italian immigrants. Nona's family actually begins in Russia where they immigrated to Italy. After Mimi leaves uncle Manual drops in for coffee and some conversation.
It is past 11:00 pm when we go off to bed. We sleep late and don't get going until 9:00 am. No coffee or breakfast which disappoints Nona. She knows that we are off to Veracruz and do not have a lot of time. She wishes us a safe trip.
Back on the road again. The city of Veracruz is only an hour away. We arrive at 10:00 am but it takes us a Little time to find the hotel.
It has been 10 years since I have been here and there has been a lot of development along the water front. We check in to the hotel. This is a magical place. The hotel was built in the 1940's and is modeled after a cruise ship with multiple levels all looking out to sea. We settle into the room and then off to "El centro" and the Zocalo.The traffic is crazy down town. No parking in sight when suddenly a guy waves us into a tiny spot. Whoa! That was great. So off we trot looking for the Zocalo. We haven't had breakfast so brunch is calling.
We find the Zocalo and pick a restaurant. Shrimp for breakfast. I picked up a city map from the tourist office on the Zocalo. George and I look it over to decide on what sights we should take in. We decide to walk along the waterfront and go down to the aquarium which I remember as being equivalent to the one in Boston.Off we go. We run the gauntlet past all of the street vendors along the way. The views are wonderful and the sun is shinning brightly with gentle sea breezes. The walk turned out to be very long, about 2 km. Anyway, we arrive. I see that my memory has faded. Although the aquarium is big and has those spots where the fish and sharks swim over you, this is not like the Boston aquarium. Still it is impressive.
I see that they added a dolphin tank with 3 dolphins. They are very big.There is lots of shopping in the building which suggests that we go to a mall.
We grab a taxi back to our car and we drive to the Mall of the Americas. This is a big mall on the scale of Square One in Mississauga. We do a little window shopping then we look for "The Italian Coffee Company". George needs his coffee and sweets. Of course I have to humour him and have cheese cake too.Back to the hotel for a quick change then back to town. We take a taxi this time because there will be drinking. The Zocalo is different in the evening. There are more music groups then diners in the cafes. There are 3 groups playing and they are all within 4 tables of us. The music and singing blends into one large orchestra. The passing vendors are selling Rolex watches, Cuban cigars, peanuts, hammocks and other food items. The place is crazy with sounds, colours and people. We love it. Of course I buy a box of Romeo and Juliette, robustos. The guy wants 350 pesos for them . We settle on 300 pesos which means that the cigars are about 1 dollar each.
After supper which is about 10:30 pm we decide it is time for coffee and desert. We find a taxi and order him to take us to a "The Italian Coffee Company" in the Boca Del Rio area (near our hotel). We have a coffee and carrot cake. For some reason the waiter at the cash thinks my request for Pastel Zanahoria is funny. But a smart quick girl behind the counter runs back to the kitchen and returns with a whole cake. She understood my request and jumped upon it. Great service. My Spanish must be good.
It is midnight by the time we are ready to go because I had one of the cigars. It was very good. So a taxi ride back to the hotel and off to bed.
I am up by 8:00 am. By 9:00 am George and I are in the breakfast room overlooking the grounds and the sea. George loves sitting in the sun looking off to sea.
We walk down to the beach which is just off the hotel property. It is a very nice day and a good opportunity to have a morning cigar. A guy walks by us with a large pail, the size of a milking pail. It is full of freshly caught shrimp which he is selling to people on the beach.Now it is time to leave. We head back up to the hotel and check out. Off we head home.
Our first stop along the way is at "The Italian Coffee Company" for a send off coffee. Before actually getting home we will have sampled 2 more Italian Coffee Company locations. The weather is great and the traffic not too bad. We make the trip in under 5 hours. I must have been driving very quickly it seems.What a great trip.
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
The Kindness of Strangers
The second water spot I wanted to find was an “Oyo de Aqua”- basically a spot where an underground river comes to the surface. This particular spot was the ancient bathing place of the Zapotec royal family, and has a romantic story tied to it about an offering, a vision and a happy marriage. Worth a visit in my books!
We followed directions in the book, which were incorrect, and then asked some kids, who told us to go back to the corner where there is a police station, go right, then at the general hospital, go left, and from there follow the signs. And so we did. Success!
We drive the car in and park, grab our suits and head to a washroom to change. Suited up, we saunter down to see what awaits us. A river had been dammed, creating large pools for people to play in. There are huge rocks underwater, and the pools are not deep, they vary from maybe knee deep to chest deep. Mango trees grow overhead and little islands create different bathing areas. We set our clothes down and I catch a woman’s eye. I ask her if she will look out for our stuff as we swim. (Si!) Into the warm, mineralized water we go! Can you pick out the two "Gueros" - white ones - in the water?
Refreshed, enchanted by the place and just tickled by the whole adventure, we not-so-gracefully get out of the water and sit to dry off. The Senora who watched our clothes offers us tacos to enjoy. We thank her and devour them.
Ralph decided he should sit and have a beer and a cigar, and so we got changed and sat at the little hut for a drink. The owner has cataracts in both eyes, and was as enchanted by us as we were with the place. A cigar stop turns into a discussion about how we found this place. I eventually had to take out my guidebook and show them, translating the directions line by line and at the same time explaining that these were the wrong directions. They wanted to know where we were from, where we were going, how did we like this place, what did our money look like, and finally an exchange of addresses, in case we were there again, we were invited to the owner’s house. George donated a 20 CDN bill for the good of the village, and challenged me to explain in Spanish why Queen Elizabeth was on Canadian money. I was asked, but simply said it was a long story, for another time.
Hours later we leave, feeling somehow like family leaving a place that although not often visited, always welcomed and loved. I think we all felt honored to have been allowed to find this special place, to be invited to eat, to break bread, to share a bit of our stories and our lives.
Path is Sometimes Steep
In researching our weekend away in the Istmo, I had read about a ruin that was supposed to be quite spectacular, in that it had been abandoned in 1300 AD and although known, was never restored. Arriving there was supposed to be magical, feeling like you were only just discovering this wonder after a sometimes steep walk through the hills. The guidebook said to pick up a guide at the little palapa hut at the entrance of the town, and drive up, park and walk 3 kilometers to the site.It suggested we go early, but by the time we found breakfast (seems Tehuantepec is an 8:30 a.m. start kind of town), brought George’s glasses in to an Optica, decided on new frames as he had broken the others, asked the salesperson if on her way out she could drop them off at the hotel (Si!) and hit the road, we were not getting a guide and heading up the hill until close to 10:30.
After a slightly insane drive on a road loaded with boulders, each scrape causing our guide to flinch, we park at the foot of a path and start our ascent. The walk will take us slightly over an hour to accomplish, with breaks as required, and George grilling me the entire way about what arrangement his wife, Mary, and I have regarding his life insurance policy. The guide, on our breaks, comments that we should have gotten started earlier. Ralph is, as usual, his gazelle-like self, hoping over rocks, sprinting and jumping and not sweating. I, as always, plod along. For once, though, my gazelle husband gets eaten by bugs, check out the result of the days hike! (Also note the sexy muscle definition!)Our guide leads us onward and upward, his machete making a distinctive “ping” as he clears branches from overhead and from the path to ease our passing. There is something exotic about being led up a side of a hill, surrounded by cactus and forest and huge black boulders, by a skinny man who speaks no English, skillfully wielding a very, very sharp machete.
Arriving at the ruin is preceded by the passing through a huge fortification wall, at least 6 feet high and 4 feet wide, still mostly intact. We are getting close. As the path straightens out, there is an obvious flat patio, like a gathering place, and you can see where the walls are still covered in stucco. Over a small mound and into a grand plaza, where Ralph clambers into the ball court and up the two pyramids. There is no one to tell you here that you cannot climb these walls or these ruined stairs, to see what men saw 700 years ago. A valley. A river. A place where people would be safe, surrounded by lush forest and enclosed by a wall made of slate.
Into the Isthmus, and so much more.
After walking the town and sitting for a moment in a square, I suggest we go and explore a nearby cave. After buying water (lessons learned!), we hop a cab and tell him we want to go to La Cueva. He asks if we mean the disco, and we clarify that no, we mean the hole in the side of the hill, please.
Welcome to the Land of the Isthmus.
Saturday, January 16, 2010
More About Benito Juarez - The Town, The Park, The Lookout
There was a short walk (90 minutes or so) to El Mirador, a lookout spot where the Sierra Madre mountains surround you on all sides. Sounded like a plan. We head out with Denise, the only female guide in the town, after paying our 20 peso per person entrance fee to the park and our 120 pesos group fee for the guide.
Other than safety and the feelig that someone is there who knows the route, Denise does not offer much in the way of area knowledge. For 120 pesos, I would recommend you get a guide however - you are helping out the local community and supporting their efforts to make the place appealing and attractive to guests. Who knows, some day they may even put in stairs to the suspension bridge so you don't have to scale a rock face to get there.
Ralph saw on the map that we were a mere 10 kilometers from Latuvi, and suggested we go and have trout for dinner. After our walk (2 hours and a bit, I guess we were slower than those before us), we pile into the car, and are warmly welcomed at the Cara de Leon Trout Farm. Here is a picture of George and Ralph making sure the fish was fresh.
Clutches of Missourians
As Ralph mentioned, our friend George is here for a visit, and George happens to enjoy mountain walks. Ralph and I had not yet been to the town of Benito Juarez(which, by the way, has nothing to do with the famed man himself, other than they named a town after him.), and there was evidently a few hikes one could go on from this small town, part of the Benito Juarez National Park. George, having arrived Monday, was warned about the potential condition of the road to get there. However, we did not warn him about what one could find on the side of said roads. Along with the usual chickens, dogs, sheep, goats, and cows, this trip allowed us a fine view of a new form of wildlife: a clutch of Missourians. I know, so exciting! As we approached the second grouping, we stopped the car slightly downhill from the grouping to hopefully get a picture of this rare sighting before they scattered. Success:
Having passed their nesting minivan by the side of the road, we can confirm that yes, this is definately a clutch of Missourians. As they look similar to other clutches that flock here during winter from the North, the confirmation sighting of the nest was a blessing, really!
Friday, January 15, 2010
What's New
Yesterday, my friend George and I went to the archaeological site, Monte Alban. It has been cold and windy, especially the day before. It was cloudy and cold in the morning so I put on a jacket and did not put on a cap or sunglasses.
Monte Alban is near my house, about 10 minutes away. It is 2 km high and the air is thin. There, it was warm and not windy. After awhile the clouds passed. Both of us, George and I got burnt. Our faces were beaming.
I had been invited to a jam session in San Pablo de Etla. Some guys get together every Thursday at the Casa Rabb. There were approximately 10 musicians and an extra guitar for me. It was dark so my red face was hidden and there were no jokes.
We played for 3 hours until 11:30 PM. I have not played guitar for 3 months so my fingers hurt. I think that I will go again, maybe next week. My fingers will be better by then.
Versíon español
Monte Alban is near my house, about 10 minutes away. It is 2 km high and the air is thin. There, it was warm and not windy. After awhile the clouds passed. Both of us, George and I got burnt. Our faces were beaming.
I had been invited to a jam session in San Pablo de Etla. Some guys get together every Thursday at the Casa Rabb. There were approximately 10 musicians and an extra guitar for me. It was dark so my red face was hidden and there were no jokes.
We played for 3 hours until 11:30 PM. I have not played guitar for 3 months so my fingers hurt. I think that I will go again, maybe next week. My fingers will be better by then.
Versíon español
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Building Bridges
As mentioned in a previous post, Ralph and I had been out looking at real estate. We had seen a few properties on the weekend that were interesting. One of them is quite secluded with a lovely view, and a corn and squash crop on it. While we were there, not only did we learn new vocabulary, but also enjoyed the wonderful nonchalant attitude toward building bridges. The property to too far going around the hill, and the owner said "Un puente, tres arcos, ping, ping ping." He is telling me that I could build a bridge, three arches. Right. Well, Ralph and I went back to walk the property, and walked the road where we would build said bridge. We loved the property, the view of the pond, the mountains all around, the amazing views. Once back in the car, I said quietly to Ralph: Bridge building intimidates me.
And there it is. The thought of buying an old house, falling apart, that requires lifting and new foundation work and a new roof and a new furnace - bring it on! But a bridge?
Civil engineers, architects, permits, builders. How much does it cost to build a bridge? How long would it take? Who would maintain the bridge? Was the road in, on the side of the lagoon, public easement or private? We had more questions than answers. And all the questions in Spanish.
Ping, ping, ping.
And there it is. The thought of buying an old house, falling apart, that requires lifting and new foundation work and a new roof and a new furnace - bring it on! But a bridge?
Civil engineers, architects, permits, builders. How much does it cost to build a bridge? How long would it take? Who would maintain the bridge? Was the road in, on the side of the lagoon, public easement or private? We had more questions than answers. And all the questions in Spanish.
Ping, ping, ping.
Monday, January 11, 2010
Ralph's Spanish
When we are talking with our Canadian friends and family back in Canada one of the frequent questions is "How's Ralph's Spanish coming". So I thought that I would answer this question in a blog post.
I have had 6 weeks of intensive study comprising 20 hours of formal study each week. This has been followed by 2 hours a week of formal teaching and review. So with this I have been armed with enough Spanish to "get along" so to speak. Here are some recent examples of my Spanish use.
1. Weekend in Mexico City. I was a bit nervous going to Mexico City to meet Luis's family. Spanish only. But I did well. We had a family supper with the family and although I didn't speak as much as the others I certainly understood all that was being said and I got to offer a comment here and there. Again the next day we all met in the late afternoon. We strolled and chatted as we walked around the church where Alison and Luis will get married and around the park and markets. We chose a restaurant for supper and again a lot of Spanish. I was comfortable and followed the conversations and offered comments here and there. Later we walked around some more and I related my problem of not being able to find a Suzuki dealer in Oaxaca where I could get my car lights fixed. With that and other small talk I survived mexico City.
I was please with my progress with the language in just how much I was able to comprehend.
2. Purchasing a cell phone. I thought that it was time to have my Blackberry Storm setup for use in Mexico. So far I have been using the phone as our bedside alarm clock. I also have a phone that I purchased while in Thailand last year which needs a SIM card for Mexico. So off I went. I was heading out to do a few errands anyway while Tanya was working at home. I parked near the bank where I was getting some cash for the week. I saw a Telcel store across the street so I wandered over there.
So in Spanish I say "Good morning. Do you sell SIM cards? I need a SIM card for this phone." The clerk says "No". I have to go to "el centro". She points in a direction over my right shoulder. This confuses me because "el centro" means the city center and that is in the opposite direction to the one she is pointing. I say "Where? In the center of the city?". She says "No. Just across the street." She takes me to the door and points across the street where the Telcel head office is located.
So across the street I go. I see that Telcel here has a big store with many "tellers" and a long line of people waiting. Near the door there is a receptionist. I ask if I can get a SIM card. She says yes, gives me a slip of paper and tells me to join the line up with the other people. The slip of paper has the date and time of my arrival. So, after 35 minutes in line I finally get my turn at one of the 8 tellers. So again, in my perfect Spanish I say good morning and do you have a SIM card for this telephone. I hand her the phone. She takes the phone, excuses herself and steps through a door at the back. In about 5 minutes she returns and tells me that this particular phone will not work with the Mexico SIM card. Okay, I say. How about this phone, can it be setup to work here? And I pass her my Blackberry. She checks the phone. She checks her computer. She whispers something to the lady sitting at the next teller location. Then she excuses herself again and goes out back. After about another 10 minutes she returns and tells me that this phone will not work on their system. She suggests that I go to IUSACELL about 2 blocks down the street.
So off I go driving down the street looking for IUSACELL. I arrive to the sounds of blazing rock music. I go inside and speak to a young fellow. I tell him that the music is so loud that I cannot hear. He closes the front door.Do you have a SIM card for my phone I ask. He looks at the phone and tells me that their SIM cards will not fit into the phone. Okay, then how about my Blackberry? He looks at it, asks me who the carrier is - I say Bell Canada, and then he steps into a back room. In about 5 minutes he returns and tells me that I will not be able to get service in Mexico. (I'll have to call Bell now and see what they have to say).
Okay, no phone service for me. Well I ask, how about selling me a phone. We select on the least expensive phone which will only work in Mexico. I need to get a phone card for the Pay-as-you-go option. I can get more time at the grocery store when needed. Okay I say and get information about the cost of calls in Oaxaca, the cost if I am in Mexico City, the cost if I call Canada and the cost of incoming calls. Business is done and I leave. All of this was accomplished in Spanish. I am proud and surprised with myself. And I now have a working phone.
3. Replacing head light and tail light on the car. The front right and rear right lights were out on the car. Tanya finds out that auto electrical issues need to be taken to a specialty shop that deals with lights. So off I go to a shop that we had earlier found on the road to the airport. I parked on the street outside of the shop doors. I went in and 3 guys stared at me. I asked for the jefe (boss). I asked the boss if he could fix my lights. I had looked up in the dictionary earlier and knew that the head light was "faro" and the tail light was "piloto" so I was armed with vocabulary. He asked what model car I had and I pointed to my car on the street and said that it was a Suzuki Swift. He told me to bring it into the shop which I did.
The boss assigned a young fellow to the job. I popped the hood, the fellow popped out the bulb and with his tester determined that the bulb was burnt out. he went inside and returned with a replacement. Done. Great. Now the back light. He asked me to turn on the lights and to step on the brake so that he could determine which light to focus upon. He then opened up the light box and extracted the bulb. The bulb was fine so he looked at the connector then went inside. He returned with a small file which he used to clean off the contacts. The bulb was re-inserted. I tried the brakes and everything looked good.
The boss came over and we discussed the work and I asked the price. I was nervous about this part because in Toronto this was a $100 job. He looked at me carefully and I could see that he was determining just how much he could overcharge this gringo. !00 pesos he says. Pardon, could you repeat that please. 100 pesos is only $10. Shocked, that even if that is an overcharge I am ecstatic. I quickly pay, hope in my car and happily drive off. Another Spanish interaction successfully completed.
4. Getting the oil changed on the car. When we first arrived in Oaxaca we went to have the oild changed. The Suzuki dealer here only does motorcycles but they agreed to change the oil for us. The issue then was that they did not have a filter for the car. After that we arranged for our friend Sarah to pick up 2 filters in Toronto and delivered them to Tanya in Cancun during Claire's stagette. So I was prepared.
Can you change the oil in my car please I ask. The shop boss remembers me and says it cannot be done without a filter from Veracruz. I say that I have a filter from Canada. He says that he is going to get another gentleman who speaks English. As he leaves I say the the other guy there, "can you not understand my Spanish and that I want the oil changed?". He says that, yes he understands and that the other guy is going to get the English guy.
By the time the English guy returns I have made the mechanic understand that I need an oil change and that I have the oil filter. I reconfirm this to the big boss who speaks as good English as I do Spanish. I show them the filter and am told to drive my car into the service bay. The job gets done and I pay. The charge is $20 for the 4 liters of oil and $8 for labour. That is 280 pesos for the complete job.
Initially awkward with the Spanish but the job got done. Good for me.
5. Getting the car washed. The car was filthy and dusty with all of our recent travels. Time for a wash. As I am driving home I pass a "Auto Lava". I stop, put the car in reverse and drive into one of the 3 bays. The boss comes over and I ask for a wash. Sure he says. Inside too I ask. Sure, inside and out he says. Good I say and add, "How long will it take?" which I say as "How much time?". He responds with something that includes the state name of Chiapes. At this point we both look at one another as we both know that there has been a miscommunication. I again offer "How much time to wash the car?". He smiles and says 40 minutes.
Great I say to myself. I did it. Well I sit down in one of the waiting chairs and I read through the local paper. About 30 minutes later the job is done. "How much", I ask. "40 pesos", he says. (That's about $4.) I give the young fellow 10 pesos as a tip ($1).
So, I am not great with my Spanish but when I force myself upon people and make them actually deal with me in Spanish I can get the job done. I certainly need more practice but I have come a long way since October. I can communicate.
I have had 6 weeks of intensive study comprising 20 hours of formal study each week. This has been followed by 2 hours a week of formal teaching and review. So with this I have been armed with enough Spanish to "get along" so to speak. Here are some recent examples of my Spanish use.
1. Weekend in Mexico City. I was a bit nervous going to Mexico City to meet Luis's family. Spanish only. But I did well. We had a family supper with the family and although I didn't speak as much as the others I certainly understood all that was being said and I got to offer a comment here and there. Again the next day we all met in the late afternoon. We strolled and chatted as we walked around the church where Alison and Luis will get married and around the park and markets. We chose a restaurant for supper and again a lot of Spanish. I was comfortable and followed the conversations and offered comments here and there. Later we walked around some more and I related my problem of not being able to find a Suzuki dealer in Oaxaca where I could get my car lights fixed. With that and other small talk I survived mexico City.
I was please with my progress with the language in just how much I was able to comprehend.
2. Purchasing a cell phone. I thought that it was time to have my Blackberry Storm setup for use in Mexico. So far I have been using the phone as our bedside alarm clock. I also have a phone that I purchased while in Thailand last year which needs a SIM card for Mexico. So off I went. I was heading out to do a few errands anyway while Tanya was working at home. I parked near the bank where I was getting some cash for the week. I saw a Telcel store across the street so I wandered over there.
So in Spanish I say "Good morning. Do you sell SIM cards? I need a SIM card for this phone." The clerk says "No". I have to go to "el centro". She points in a direction over my right shoulder. This confuses me because "el centro" means the city center and that is in the opposite direction to the one she is pointing. I say "Where? In the center of the city?". She says "No. Just across the street." She takes me to the door and points across the street where the Telcel head office is located.
So across the street I go. I see that Telcel here has a big store with many "tellers" and a long line of people waiting. Near the door there is a receptionist. I ask if I can get a SIM card. She says yes, gives me a slip of paper and tells me to join the line up with the other people. The slip of paper has the date and time of my arrival. So, after 35 minutes in line I finally get my turn at one of the 8 tellers. So again, in my perfect Spanish I say good morning and do you have a SIM card for this telephone. I hand her the phone. She takes the phone, excuses herself and steps through a door at the back. In about 5 minutes she returns and tells me that this particular phone will not work with the Mexico SIM card. Okay, I say. How about this phone, can it be setup to work here? And I pass her my Blackberry. She checks the phone. She checks her computer. She whispers something to the lady sitting at the next teller location. Then she excuses herself again and goes out back. After about another 10 minutes she returns and tells me that this phone will not work on their system. She suggests that I go to IUSACELL about 2 blocks down the street.
So off I go driving down the street looking for IUSACELL. I arrive to the sounds of blazing rock music. I go inside and speak to a young fellow. I tell him that the music is so loud that I cannot hear. He closes the front door.Do you have a SIM card for my phone I ask. He looks at the phone and tells me that their SIM cards will not fit into the phone. Okay, then how about my Blackberry? He looks at it, asks me who the carrier is - I say Bell Canada, and then he steps into a back room. In about 5 minutes he returns and tells me that I will not be able to get service in Mexico. (I'll have to call Bell now and see what they have to say).
Okay, no phone service for me. Well I ask, how about selling me a phone. We select on the least expensive phone which will only work in Mexico. I need to get a phone card for the Pay-as-you-go option. I can get more time at the grocery store when needed. Okay I say and get information about the cost of calls in Oaxaca, the cost if I am in Mexico City, the cost if I call Canada and the cost of incoming calls. Business is done and I leave. All of this was accomplished in Spanish. I am proud and surprised with myself. And I now have a working phone.
3. Replacing head light and tail light on the car. The front right and rear right lights were out on the car. Tanya finds out that auto electrical issues need to be taken to a specialty shop that deals with lights. So off I go to a shop that we had earlier found on the road to the airport. I parked on the street outside of the shop doors. I went in and 3 guys stared at me. I asked for the jefe (boss). I asked the boss if he could fix my lights. I had looked up in the dictionary earlier and knew that the head light was "faro" and the tail light was "piloto" so I was armed with vocabulary. He asked what model car I had and I pointed to my car on the street and said that it was a Suzuki Swift. He told me to bring it into the shop which I did.
The boss assigned a young fellow to the job. I popped the hood, the fellow popped out the bulb and with his tester determined that the bulb was burnt out. he went inside and returned with a replacement. Done. Great. Now the back light. He asked me to turn on the lights and to step on the brake so that he could determine which light to focus upon. He then opened up the light box and extracted the bulb. The bulb was fine so he looked at the connector then went inside. He returned with a small file which he used to clean off the contacts. The bulb was re-inserted. I tried the brakes and everything looked good.
The boss came over and we discussed the work and I asked the price. I was nervous about this part because in Toronto this was a $100 job. He looked at me carefully and I could see that he was determining just how much he could overcharge this gringo. !00 pesos he says. Pardon, could you repeat that please. 100 pesos is only $10. Shocked, that even if that is an overcharge I am ecstatic. I quickly pay, hope in my car and happily drive off. Another Spanish interaction successfully completed.
4. Getting the oil changed on the car. When we first arrived in Oaxaca we went to have the oild changed. The Suzuki dealer here only does motorcycles but they agreed to change the oil for us. The issue then was that they did not have a filter for the car. After that we arranged for our friend Sarah to pick up 2 filters in Toronto and delivered them to Tanya in Cancun during Claire's stagette. So I was prepared.
Can you change the oil in my car please I ask. The shop boss remembers me and says it cannot be done without a filter from Veracruz. I say that I have a filter from Canada. He says that he is going to get another gentleman who speaks English. As he leaves I say the the other guy there, "can you not understand my Spanish and that I want the oil changed?". He says that, yes he understands and that the other guy is going to get the English guy.
By the time the English guy returns I have made the mechanic understand that I need an oil change and that I have the oil filter. I reconfirm this to the big boss who speaks as good English as I do Spanish. I show them the filter and am told to drive my car into the service bay. The job gets done and I pay. The charge is $20 for the 4 liters of oil and $8 for labour. That is 280 pesos for the complete job.
Initially awkward with the Spanish but the job got done. Good for me.
5. Getting the car washed. The car was filthy and dusty with all of our recent travels. Time for a wash. As I am driving home I pass a "Auto Lava". I stop, put the car in reverse and drive into one of the 3 bays. The boss comes over and I ask for a wash. Sure he says. Inside too I ask. Sure, inside and out he says. Good I say and add, "How long will it take?" which I say as "How much time?". He responds with something that includes the state name of Chiapes. At this point we both look at one another as we both know that there has been a miscommunication. I again offer "How much time to wash the car?". He smiles and says 40 minutes.
Great I say to myself. I did it. Well I sit down in one of the waiting chairs and I read through the local paper. About 30 minutes later the job is done. "How much", I ask. "40 pesos", he says. (That's about $4.) I give the young fellow 10 pesos as a tip ($1).
So, I am not great with my Spanish but when I force myself upon people and make them actually deal with me in Spanish I can get the job done. I certainly need more practice but I have come a long way since October. I can communicate.
Sunday, January 10, 2010
A Real Estate Update
Yesterday was my first day out to see real estate. Ralph had been once before, and though we had tried to get things going before the holidays, it was just not happening. Our main directive in seeing real estate is to try to get a sound financial plan together to execute upon once repatriated to Canada. Ralph has a few years left of working, and we need to set ourselves up financially for the next big step of moving to Mexico and living here permanently. We are playing with an idea of introducing Tiny Tom Donuts to the markets and festivals here, but nevertheless, our ultimate dream of having "casitas" to rent and trying our hand at grape growing is strong and passionate. And sustainable.
On our drives around the Valley of Oaxaca, we often see roadside signs: Lotes - 15,000. This is a lot for sale for 15,000 pesos. It might be very small, and usually in what is called a "fraccionmiento", or subdivision. It may or may not have a promise date to deliver services to the area. If Ralph and I were coming to retire in Oaxaca on a limited income with no thoughts of much else other than enjoying this fine city, I might consider the one selling on the road to Ocotlan. However, I am far from ready to retire, and am what most would consider a Type A personality, so going for walks and leading the local Bingo game is not going to sustain me.
From what I can tell so far, the prices for the land we are interested in range from 150 pesos per square meter to 300 pesos per square meter. We found two properties we really liked yesterday, and came home to do the pros and cons of each. It was hard not to get excited about the lots, both were workable and charming in their own way. We are going to go back out today on our own to see if our driving time to downtown perceptions were somehow altered by the outstanding views from each property. Our ideal: a property with a view, within 30 minutes commute time by car to the Zocalo, easy access by Oaxaca standards, with land we can grown grapes on.
Tomorrow we are supposed to go out to Huayapan to have a look at a few lots there. Perspective is a good thing. The planning continues, but so far we are happy with our progress.
On our drives around the Valley of Oaxaca, we often see roadside signs: Lotes - 15,000. This is a lot for sale for 15,000 pesos. It might be very small, and usually in what is called a "fraccionmiento", or subdivision. It may or may not have a promise date to deliver services to the area. If Ralph and I were coming to retire in Oaxaca on a limited income with no thoughts of much else other than enjoying this fine city, I might consider the one selling on the road to Ocotlan. However, I am far from ready to retire, and am what most would consider a Type A personality, so going for walks and leading the local Bingo game is not going to sustain me.
From what I can tell so far, the prices for the land we are interested in range from 150 pesos per square meter to 300 pesos per square meter. We found two properties we really liked yesterday, and came home to do the pros and cons of each. It was hard not to get excited about the lots, both were workable and charming in their own way. We are going to go back out today on our own to see if our driving time to downtown perceptions were somehow altered by the outstanding views from each property. Our ideal: a property with a view, within 30 minutes commute time by car to the Zocalo, easy access by Oaxaca standards, with land we can grown grapes on.
Tomorrow we are supposed to go out to Huayapan to have a look at a few lots there. Perspective is a good thing. The planning continues, but so far we are happy with our progress.
The Pilgrimage
Ralph and I headed up to Mexico City to meet his parents and see the area where they were considering for the wedding. A few mentionables: The drive was about 5 hours long, all on toll roads. Toll road costs between Oaxaca and Mexico City was 354 pesos one way. At the toll plaza on the way through Puebla they sell puppies on the side of the road. Puppies, candy, drinks, oranges. You know, normal things that one would buy while driving from Oaxaca to Mexico City. Driving in Mexico City was not that crazy, though we really only drove in and out, most of the rest of the time we took the metro, which was great. Easy and convenient.
Alison and Luis had asked if there was anything in particular we wanted to see. The first thing out of my mouth was the Virgin of Guadalupe Basilica and Shroud. Evidently the original shroud is there, the one that originally appeared on Juan Diego's blanket on December 12, 1531. I had decided it should be a destination of choice, a pilgrimage of sorts.
Sunday morning we drive to the area of Mexico City where her basilica stands. After taking the moving sidewalk under the altar to get prime pictures of what is evidently the shroud, we go to wander the market that surrounds her basilica. We had seen some bracelets we thought we could get cheaper in the market. Never before had I seen a market entirely dedicated to one icon. Stall after stall, for what fills at least 2 square kilometers, are vendors selling bracelets, framed photos for the front of your car, T-Shirts with various virgin images on them, stickers, statuary, candles and pendants for both windows and necklines. We bought a sticker for the car, and a Virgin in a Nutshell on a suction cup.
The shear madness and volume of vendors and marketing around the Virgin is a thing to be experienced. We are surrounded by her image in Mexico, I am glad we have been to "The Source".
No such thing as Off the Beaten Track
This is Hierve el Agua, which actually directly translates into "Where the Water Boils". It is an appropriate name for the site. The last time Ralph and I were in Oaxaca, in July 2006, the site was closed due to some controversy within the communities that are driven through to get to this remarkable site.
Seeing as this was our first time going there, we had no way of warning our guests, Angie, Ayla, Alison and Luis about the condition of the roads once off the highway. Other than the initial village you must drive through to get to the main road over the mountain, it was not that bad of a drive. Steep switchbacks on a gravel road, 1 lane for both directions of traffic, and no shoulder for 13 kilometres. Ralph and I had been on worse. Our guests, not so much.
Follow the hand written signs for Hierve el Agua and you arrive at a spectacular site. The water fall is created by the slow flow and ultimate evaporation of highly mineralized water, which springs out of the ground to the surface in at least 2 places we could see. Therefore, the "waterfall" in this picture is not actually water flowing, but the deposits of water that once flowed. Pretty cool, eh?
15 pesos per person gets you through the gate. A bit more of a hike downhill and you come to a splendid view, and the locals have created small pools for the spring water to flow into, making the place prime for chilling and splashing in the water. The site offers two hikes, one to stand on top of the actual waterfall, the other to the base. We did not do the hikes this time, but plan to go back soon to do some more exploring.
At the top of the hill are a few basic food stands where you can sit for a quick and local bite to eat and a drink. The prices are economical (lunch for 6 of us was 175 pesos), which had my sister speculating about Oaxaca tourist sites in general. She likened the adventure to Hierve el Agua to a Canadian water park, where you drive for over an hour, pay 60 Canadian dollars to get in, and then they charge you another 20 dollars for lunch, per person.
I guess there are sacrifices to be made for paved roads.
Friday, January 8, 2010
Oaxaca - Sense of Adventure Required
As mentioned in a previous post, my sister and niece were here visiting for 2 weeks, and my step daughter and her fiancé were here for a few days at the same time. I realized I had done a terrible thing, sending my sister some proposed tours. She had responded back that she wanted to do everything, and after a day of being a bit lazy around the house, she had her itinerary out, made a calendar of days left, and planned what we would do every single day until the moment she boarded the plane. I did say she was my sister, after all.
And so we did almost everything on her list. On Christmas Eve we went to San Sebastien de las Grutas, which are caves about an hour and a half drive away.
Ralph and I have now been in Oaxaca for a few months. As previously posted, the roads here are a bit incredible. I am happy to say my sister has now experienced this first hand. When we had driven the 10 kilometers off the highway along a dirt road filled with potholes and rocks, parts paved and still parts with topes (speed bumps) to slow down cars on a particularly steep switch back, my sister got out of the car and I thought she was going to kiss the ground. Sweaty palms and all, we went on to experience one of the most incredible cave walks I have ever done in my life. Our guide (a cost of 20 pesos per person for 1.5 hour guided walk through the cave) walked us up the hill to the mouth of the cave, and then into a darkness that was surreal. He abandoned us at the base of another cave opening, instructing us to follow the red arrows back to the car. We did, feeling quite gazelle-like leaping over rocks along what could loosely be called a path. We stopped for lunch at a little comedor, got eaten by bugs and stared at by dogs, and then headed back to the car for another trek of dirt road.
Not a trip for the faint of heart, but not a trip to be missed, either.
Not a trip for the faint of heart, but not a trip to be missed, either.
The Jewish Canadian American Mexican Christmas Party
On December 22nd, the night before the Radish Festival, we invited a few people over to the house. We don't know many people, but between my sister and niece, Ralph and I and 11 other friends, we had a nice, fun get together. Our Oaxacan friends had asked us about our Canadian traditions the week before, and to be frank, I was a bit stumped for an answer. I said it really depended on your family. Some celebrate the 24th, some go to church, some go for a drive to see the Christmas lights. I also said that some people made gingerbread houses before Christmas. He asked me what those were. I asked him if he knew the cookies, the little men cookies, with "ginjebre" in the dough. He said yes, so I explained that you made a house out of the same dough and decorated it with candy.
Well, he was so excited by the concept I decided to make gingerbread houses as an activity for the party. After some Internet research to find a recipe for the dough and the icing, and then a hunt for the right type of candies, spices, sugars and molasses (another 5 different grocery stores), we were in business.
Well, he was so excited by the concept I decided to make gingerbread houses as an activity for the party. After some Internet research to find a recipe for the dough and the icing, and then a hunt for the right type of candies, spices, sugars and molasses (another 5 different grocery stores), we were in business.
(Understand that this was my first gingerbread house attempt. My sister had made a house before, but she had bought a kit. Evidently the gingerbread out of the kits is not edible. This has been confirmed now by multiple sources.)
We made a total of three houses, 1 for each child who would be at the party. Or at least we thought it would be for the kids! The adults had more fun decorating the houses, deciding on plans, and our Oaxacan friends were in awe of the whole process. There was a small crisis when the group thought we were out of icing, and then some excitement as the houses started to cave in or collapse under the weight of the candy on the roof.
I can't wait to make them again next year!
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